Leveling kits bring the front of your F-150 up to match the rear “rake.” Done right, you’ll clear a larger tire, sharpen the stance, and keep daily-drivable manners. Shop our kits or learn below what to buy, what it costs, how to install it, and how to choose the right size for your truck.

How much is a leveling kit for an F-150?

Parts

• Strut-top spacers (most common): $60–$250

• Preload spacers (inside the strut): $120–$300

• Replacement front coilovers (performance “level”): $900–$2,400+ pair (adjustable ride height)

• Complete UCA + coilover systems: $1,600–$3,500+

Labor

• Spacer kits: 2–3.5 hours per side depending on shop/tools → typically $250–$600 total labor

• Coilovers or UCA swap: $400–$900 labor

• Alignment (required): $100–$180

Real-world total:

• Budget spacer + alignment: $350–$800

• Premium coilovers + alignment: $1,200–$3,000+

How to install a leveling kit on a Ford F-150 (high-level steps)

Always follow the instructions for your exact kit/year. Torque specs vary by generation (’15–’20 vs. ’21+), engine package (incl. PowerBoost), and whether you have CCD/magride-style dampers.

1. Prep & safety

   • Park on level ground, chock rear wheels, put the truck on jack stands, remove front wheels.

   • Soak fasteners with penetrating oil. Support the lower control arm (LCA) with a jack.

2. Disconnect components

   • Remove sway bar end link from the LCA.

   • Unclip/relieve ABS & brake line brackets for slack.

   • Loosen the tie-rod end if the strut won’t swing out easily (not always required).

3. Free the strut

   • Remove the three top hat nuts and the lower strut bolt.

   • Carefully drop the LCA just enough to snake the strut out (avoid over-drooping the CVs on 4×4).

4. Install the kit

   • Strut-top spacer: Bolt to the strut top (clock as instructed). Reinstall the assembly.

   • Preload spacer: Disassemble the strut with a spring compressor, add spacer, reassemble.

   • Coilover “level”: Set preload/ride height per the sheet, then install.

5. Reassemble

   • Reconnect LCA, sway bar link, tie rod (if removed), and all line brackets.

   • Torque all hardware to spec at ride height (load the suspension with a jack under the LCA before final torque).

6. Repeat, set down & align

   • Install the other side. Reinstall wheels, torque lugs, and book an alignment immediately (camber/caster/toe).

Pro tips

• Don’t over-extend front CVs on 4×4—support the knuckle when the strut is out.

• After 100–300 miles, re-torque all fasteners and sway bar links.

• If your kit includes upper control arms (UCAs), set the ball-joint/uniball angle in the middle of its travel at ride height.

What are the best leveling kits for F-150?

Best for budget/stance (daily driver)

• Strut-top spacers from reputable brands (zone/Readylift/Rough Country).

  • Pros: Cheapest, bolt-on, keeps factory ride.

  • Cons: Limited travel; geometry unchanged; big sizes can push alignment limits.

Best for ride & control

• Adjustable coilovers (Bilstein 5100/6112, Eibach Pro-Truck, Fox 2.0/2.5, King OEM).

  • Pros: Real damping upgrades; height adjustability; better control over choppy pavement/washboard.

  • Cons: Higher cost; alignment still required; may benefit from UCAs at 2.25–2.5" settings.

Best for off-road abuse / proper geometry

• Performance “level” systems with UCAs (Icon, Camburg, JBA, BDS/Fox, Fabtech Dirt Logic).

  • Pros: Added caster and droop angle; stronger ball-joint/uniball; more travel.

  • Cons: Price; some maintenance (uniball/heim) depending on design.

When to add UCAs

• If you’re targeting ~2.25–2.5" front lift, bigger tires, or you want more caster and droop without binding, UCAs are worth it.

Does a leveling kit affect ride quality?

Short answer: It can. Just how much depends on the kit type.

• Strut-top spacer: Usually similar ride to stock; you’re not changing spring rate or damping. At max height (2.5"), you may feel harsher top-out over fast bumps and slightly more steering kick.

• Preload spacer: Firmer initial ride (added preload).

• Coilovers: Typically better control and reduced float; quality brands improve both on-road feel and off-road composure.

• Alignment & caster: Proper alignment (with added caster where possible) greatly improves straight-line stability after a level.

• 4×4 angles: Large front lift can increase CV and tie-rod angles; stick to 2.0–2.25" for best longevity on daily drivers without UCAs.

How to know what size leveling kit you need

From the factory, most F-150s sit ~1.5–2.5" lower in front than the rear. Measure your truck:

1. Measure rake: From the ground to the fender lip (center of wheel) front vs. rear. Subtract front from rear.

2. Pick your target:

   • 1.5"–2.0": Keeps geometry friendly; clears 33×11.5 with the right wheel.

   • 2.25"–2.5": Maximum “simple level” height. Consider aftermarket UCAs to maintain caster and droop.

   • Over 2.5": You’re in “lift kit” territory (diff drop, knuckles, brake line mods, etc.).

Quick tire fit cheat sheet (varies by wheel & liner trimming)

• Level ~2.0" + 17–20" wheels, +12 to 0 mm offset, ~4.5–5.25" backspacing

  • 33×11.50 (285/70R17, 275/60R20, 285/55R20): Usually fits with minor front liner massage.

  • 35s: Expect trimming, more offset, and ideally UCAs and more than a simple level.

Always check: wheel offset/backspacing, tread width, and UCA/sway bar clearance at full lock & compression.

Frequently asked build questions

Will I need an alignment after leveling?
Yes. Camber/caster/toe all move. Request more positive caster (as much as spec allows) for better highway tracking with bigger tires.

Do I need new rear blocks or shocks?
Not for a “level” (front only). But matched rear shocks can improve control and ride balance, especially with coilovers up front.

Will it void my warranty?
Magnuson-Moss says the mod must cause the failure to deny coverage. Use quality parts, keep records, and torque everything correctly.

PowerBoost (hybrid) or CCD trucks?
Verify kit compatibility. Some coilovers/strut spacers are not compatible with specific damper/control systems.

Recommended paths (pick your use case)

• Daily driver / budget stance:
  2.0" strut-top spacer + alignment. Keep within 33" tire range.

• Street + weekend trails:
  Height-adjustable coilovers (Bilstein/Eibach/Fox 2.0) at 1.75–2.25" + alignment. Optional UCA for caster.

• Off-road focus / 35s prep:
  2.0–2.5" performance coilovers + UCAs, careful wheel/tire spec, trimming, and possibly a mild lift beyond “level.”

Final checklist before you buy

• Measure your actual rake (don’t guess).

• Decide tire size/width and wheel offset first—buy the suspension to match.

• Choose kit type (spacer vs. coilover vs. UCA system) based on budget and ride goals.

• Plan for an alignment the same week. Re-torque after the first 100–300 miles.